Reemplazo batería Astro A50

Escrito Por: Nicholas Eriksen
  • Comentarios: 38
Reemplazo batería Astro A50

Dificultad

Difícil

Pasos

5

Tiempo Requerido

30 minutos

Introducción

En esta guía se detalla el proceso de reemplazo de la batería de los Astro A50 año 2014 (gen 2). El motivo del reemplazo es por el hecho que la batería está hecha de iones de litio, la cual se degrada con el tiempo después de unos años de uso regular. Sin embargo, no hay nada que temer por el reemplazo de la batería, ya que éste puede realizarse utilizando un soldador de estaño y un destornillador, con lo cual lo puede hacer uno mismo.

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    • Para comenzar, reitre las almohadillas que recubren el auricular de cada lado tirando de ellas delicadamente hasta retirarlas por completo.

    • Utilice un destornillador con punta Phillips hasta retirar los cuatro tornillos.

    microphone side

    Marco Lopes -

    Don't know what Marco is talking about mine was NOT the microphone side. Look at the pics…..

    Michael Hale -

    Gen 1 Astros have the battery under the mic side, no need to touch the other earpiece. Also the ear cushions can be a bugger to get back on, I suggest leaving them on/around the plastic piece and just move them aside to remove/replace the screws.

    Jody Richardson -

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    • Tenga mucho cuidado al retirar objetos que están pegados, ya que están sujetos a roturas.

    • Después de dejar a un lado las cubiertas de plástico negro, use el destornillador nuevamente para quitar los dos tornillos.

    • Identifique las cubiertas internas de espuma y retire las esquinas superiores de cada espuma para exponer y quitar los tornillos debajo.

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    • Doble suavemente hacia un lado el conjunto del altavoz para exponer las partes internas del auricular. Tenga cuidado para evitar dañar los cables negros.

    • Retire los cuatro tornillos marcados en rojo para liberar la placa frontal en el exterior del auricular.

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    • Dé la vuelta al auricular y exponga la batería doblando el micrófono y la placa protectora lejos de la carcasa de la batería.

    • Desolde las conexiones de la batería para desconectar los tres cables de color de la batería vieja. Tome nota de los colores / ubicaciones correspondientes para la instalación de la batería nueva.

    • Retire con cuidado la batería vieja colocando una herramienta de apertura de plástico o similar debajo de la batería para liberar el adhesivo.

    • No doble ni perfore el envoltorio de la batería.

    My new battery has wires, then I have desoldered on the other side.

    Marco Lopes -

    Yeah, all batteries generally come with the wires but would be way more difficult to solder this side than on the board, the other side where you soldered is the same I did as well as others, those who soldered from the battery side are either wicked solders or brave as !&&* haha!

    STEP 3, PIC 2: This is the area on the far right side of where to work from for others coming to this guide! :)

    Lee Whittaker -

    I’ll echo other commenters here, it was easier to solder the connections on the ‘board’ side rather than soldering them here on the battery side. Board is featured in Step 3 Photos 1,2

    DRedBeard -

    • Para el reensamblaje, siga los pasos 1-4 en orden inverso.

    • Asegúrese de que los cables de la batería estén soldados correctamente con cada color en su terminal correspondiente.

    • Use cantidades mínimas de adhesivo para volver a colocar la espuma del altavoz para evitar que el pegamento ensucie.

    le casque A50 Xbox one gris vert na pas les acces au vis comme dans ce tuto. donc pour le moment je ne peu pas l’ouvrir

    Banzai -

Conclusión

Asegúrese de probar la nueva batería una vez realizado el cambio de la misma para ver si se ha realizado con éxito.

Autor

Nicholas Eriksen

Miembro Desde 28/10/15

969 Reputación

31 comentarios

Could you post the dimensions of the battery itself? Seems like it's hard to find one that may or may not fit. That or could you recommend where to get a battery?

lolubad umad -

i'd also like to know where to source the battery

drbob44 -

Search for part no: 603443 on Ebay - ~$10 or buy one from Astro for $75

mattgorringe -

So, which battery is the best replacement for the original? Is it possible to put some bigger batteries inside with some modding?

Rene Siekmann -

Battery sizes are mAH, just by a 900 or more and that should do the trick. The actual size of the battery must be identical for a perfect fit and confortable headsets. Just make sure you get the correct voltage and size.

The battery comes with a cable, instead of soldering, can I tie those cables in? Also, what is the best way to remove and reattach foam cushions without damaging them?

cpaalvarez -

just peel off the foam from the side . i got it started by using my finger nail . i would solder in the stuff. not hard just get hot pull wire leave puddle of solder on board . go to next wire , next , then pull battery out , then replace with new . then feed wire thru and heat each puddle until you can place wire in hold for a minute .pull away with solder gun let cool done.

this is the battery you want

http://www.ebay.com/itm/191765770135?_tr...

dillonhighsmith -

Used this is as guideline, worked nicely, thanks!

csfan13 -

Ok guide, First... watch a few videos on disassembly in addition to this tut. Second... you only need to peel the top third of the ear foam off to expose the two screws on that section. (don't need to take the whole foam piece off) Third... there are 4 screws to take out when the speaker is off to be able to pivot the mic panel... not 6. (4 corners top right, top left under color wire, and bottom left and right under the board access through hole in board no the screws holding the board on, the middle board screw is for the mic and you don't need to remove.) Finally, it is a bit confusing... but the battery comes with wires and I soldered the wires to the board and not to the battery... I think that is obvious... but maybe not to some.

But kudos to Dillon for the battery on Ebay. I used it and it works perfectly. takes a month to get here... but for 8 bucks... can't beat it.

Also thanks for the original poster. This guide helped me in a few key places and gave me the courage to attempt!

bigalsworth1 -

many thanks for posting this repair manual.

Marco Schoch -

Set heating element on soldering iron to 600 F and was able to remove existing battery leads as well as re-insert the new battery's leads without needing to use additional solder. As "bigalsworth1" mentions this happens on the circuit board not directly on the battery. The photos are useful for remembering which order the colored wires go. I also successfully used the eBay recommendation from "dillonhighsmith"

Steve Castellotti -

Hi there love your work in posting this up

I have replaced the bat in my headset now and it seems to work fine but when I plug it into the base to charge it takes the power out of the base and it stops working? Could it be that the replacement bat is a higher mHa 900 instead of the 800 that the original was? I think my re soldering is fine as I said everything works 1000 0/0. I have it charging separately now as I have not fully charged the replacement bat as yet.

Daniel -

For those asking about the battery dimensions here you go: https://i.gyazo.com/7f13e67f12a7d94cc71d...

axblackdeathxa -

Hi , can anyone recommend me a site where i can buy this battery in europe? I can't find the correct dimensions/voltage for it and it seems non existent over here

Gavin harvey -

Anyone know what the white wire is for? I noticed the battery in the image has a white white (assume ground?) going to the PCB of the battery, but the images from the battery via ebay only has the black and red wires. Has anyone done this repair to know if there are any issues etc, please help.

Dwayne -

I did a repair on my Gen 1 A50s, replacing the three-wire battery with a two-wire battery from eBay. The third wire was connected to a pad marked "TC", which I left empty. The headset worked until the battery ran out and wouldn't charge. The orange light goes on but it never charges or turns red to indicate a full battery. I think that third pad is necessary to get the battery charging via USB.

jumbledthought -

I also have tried this fix with an eBay battery. First time I just connected the red and the black wires and it worked again until the battery ran out. When charging the orange light comes on but never turns off, which suggests it is not charging properly or even at all?

Took it all apart and soldered everything including the yellow wire (in my case), same issue, doesn't appear to be charging even if left overnight. I have also have tried two different cables but to no avail. I did buy another battery just in case I got a dud, but judging by jumbled's comment something else could be up. Potentially the charging component of the device is now faulty, but I am unsure what to replace if this is the case.

Any ideas? Has anyone else had sucess with replacing the battery?

madjaffa -

The TC lead is supposed to be for a thermistor, where they maintain temperature and control for charging. My battery did not come with a wire but does have a pad. I went and soldered the yellow wire on it. Will see how it works. If not, then I have to pick up other types from ebay that has a 3rd wire soldered already so you know there's a thermistor already attached.

Jackson Szeto -

Hi! One question: could the three wires could be joined to the wires of the new battery and insulate them with thermo-contracting insulation instead of soldering them?

Thank you

Mircea mirciulik -

Nevermind, once opened I saw the cables are to short so I soldered the new battery in place.

Mircea mirciulik -

Very awesome guide. I swapped the battery and it's charging. Will see how well it works! One thing to note, batteries I got from online did not have the TC wire. I had to open up the tape wrap to solder the middle wire. There doesn't seem to be any issue so far. As for the padding you pull up to reveal the screws to open the headphone, it worked really well for me having a hook shape tool to grab the edge. The pad pulled up with the adhesive without any tears and I did not have to reapply any glue.

Jackson Szeto -

I have a gen 1 Astro A50. How many battery wires should i be looking for a replacement battery? 2 or 3? Thanks

Zimsa Watkins -

Three I believe. I’ve just purchased a three wire off eBay for mine which died recently so wish me luck!

Simon Bird -

This battery fits perfectly and its has more battery life 950 vs the original 800 mAh.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Li-Po-Li-polyme...

Yong Her -

new link for battery here https://www.ebay.com/itm/253510761055?ss...

im gonna have a go my self

Andrew Wright -

I’ve done it, thanks to everyone ! I bough the battery with the link of Andrew Wright, just up my comment . I also bough a soldering station for 25$ at Amazon.ca . Guys be careful with the screws as the thread is bad quality! After everything is unscrew, I just cut down the 3 battery wires, remove the old battery and glued my new one. I solder the 3 wire directly on the board without the need of new soldering iron. I could easily bough a new one, but I hate so much the fact that this quality Astro headset is made for thrash after the battery life that I had to do it. I have no experience whatsoever in soldering or electronic fix, and I find the job pretty easy.

mat.tang -

What type of Glue was used on the foam during reassembly?

minicooper0569 -

Well at the tail end of 2019 I did the same. The white wire goes onto the TC red to positive and black to negative. Quite easy to do :) Thanks for the great fixit guide! These headphones have heaps more life left in them yet!

Andrew Nye -

Is there a battery in just one side, or is there a battery in each earpiece? If it’s only in one side, how do we tell which side it is?

karmavox -

There’s only one battery on the left earpiece of the headset, it’s located behind the microphone.

Javier González Montesinos -

le casque A50 Xbox one gris vert na pas les acces au vis comme dans ce tuto. donc pour le moment je ne peu pas l’ouvrir

je ferai des photo pour faire une tuto

Banzai -

Had this headset since 2014, best headset I’ve ever owned and the only issue I had which is no fault of anyone but wear and tear over the years; battery depletion haha! Anyway I came across this guide and was so happy I didn’t have to go out and buy a new headset as I wanted my wireless functionality back, I had to source the battery elsewhere due to shipping restrictions, I bought the same one looking for SRP603443.

All in all, the guide was perfectly fine for me, but as bigalsworth1 pointed out, some people might have attempted to solder the wires off the battery and not directly from the board inside the speaker cup! So only pin point to address on the guide is to say about soldering the wires from the new battery to the points in Step 3, picture 2. This would be a massive help for those who need a dummies guide (this isn’t a dig at anyone before I get shot at, just an added help as bigalsworth1 pointed out too! :)) but again, thank you so much for putting up this guide, it was a god send for me! :)

Lee Whittaker -