Swivel weave

The Swivel Weave is a weaving technique that incorporates a decorative element into the fabric by using small shuttles that insert additional weft thread around selected warp threads, while the main weft thread forms the fabric's structure. This method differs from the Plain weave, which lacks this decorative aspect.

Swivel weaving

Origin

Swivel weaving has its origins in the Ming dynasties of China. During the Ming Dynasty, the weavers from Nanjing, particularly those specializing in cloud brocade, honed their skills in the art of Swivel weaving and became masters of the technique.[1]

Technique

Swivel weaving is a decorative technique that involves producing intricate designs on other weaves, such as a basic plain weave structure[2] or satin.[1] In Swivel weaving, the weft yarns are used to create patterns on the fabric. The weft threads are interlaced with the warp threads in a specific order to produce the desired pattern on the fabric.[1][2]

This technique is aided by the use of small auxiliary shuttles that hold and transport the colorful threads, in addition to the main fabric looming fly shuttle.[2][3] These swivel shuttles are responsible for forming the designs, while the regular shuttle creates the base structure.[4] Swivel weaving is characterized by minimal waste.[5] Typically, contrasting colors were utilized for the designs.[3] The Dotted Swiss is an example of a swivel weave, where dots may be formed on a sheer fabric.[6][7]

Swivel weaving was superseded by more cost-effective methods for producing patterns on the surface of fabrics.[3]

Lappet weave

In contrast to swivel weaving, which produces figures with extra weft yarns, lappet weaving employs additional warp yarns. [6]Lappet weaving creates a similar type of weave design on one side, while swivel weaving differs by producing the design on both sides. Additionally, the method of fastening the design yarns in Lappet weaving results in the production of more robust fabrics compared to those produced through swivel weaving.[7]

See also

References
  1. Selin, Helaine (1997-07-31). Encyclopaedia of the History of Science, Technology, and Medicine in Non-Westen Cultures. Springer Science & Business Media. p. 959. ISBN 978-0-7923-4066-9.
  2. Nielson, Karla J. (2007-07-10). Interior Textiles: Fabrics, Application, and Historic Style. John Wiley & Sons. p. 75. ISBN 978-0-471-60640-6.
  3. Sarkar, Ajoy K.; Tortora, Phyllis G.; Johnson, Ingrid (2021-11-04). The Fairchild Books Dictionary of Textiles. Bloomsbury Publishing USA. p. 466. ISBN 978-1-5013-6508-9.
  4. Grosicki, Z. (2014-03-14). Watson's Advanced Textile Design: Compound Woven Structures. Woodhead Publishing. p. 411. ISBN 978-1-84569-852-2.
  5. Holmes (Weaver), James (1904). Cotton Cloth Designing. Lupton Bros. p. 149.
  6. Operath, Larry (2006). Textile. Lotus Press. pp. 66, 172. ISBN 978-81-89093-62-4.
  7. Mendelson, Cheryl (2005-05-17). Home Comforts: The Art and Science of Keeping House. Simon and Schuster. p. 199. ISBN 978-0-7432-7286-5.
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